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In mid-March 2026, Thomas and I set out on the winter Traversée du Vercors: a 3 to 5-day crossing of the Vercors mountain range in France. This relatively small range lies in the Prealps of south-eastern France and is a well-loved destination for hikers eager to traverse its vast plateaus in summer. Thanks to these wide-open landscapes and gently rolling hills (rather than dramatic, steep peaks) it’s just as popular in winter, when the same terrain transforms into an ideal playground for snowshoeing and ski touring.
With a north–south length of around 60 kilometres and about 40 kilometres from west to east, the Vercors is perfectly suited for a compact 4 to 5-day adventure, offering sweeping views along the way. Don’t be fooled, though: despite its modest size, the sense of remoteness is real. Phone reception is scarce throughout the range, and the expansive landscapes often feel wonderfully empty.
Are you thinking of planning your own winter traverse in the Vercors? Below, I’ve gathered my personal tips to help you get started. Let’s dive in!
When to go
When planning a winter traverse, there’s one factor you’ll be heavily dependent on: snow. Snowfall can be quite unpredictable from year to year. Early snow is possible from late November, while late snowfall can extend well into April. That said, while snow can fall during these periods, it’s generally safer to plan your trip somewhere in between; roughly from early January to the end of February. March is often a good option too, although spring conditions can make the snow icier or slushier.
If you’d like to check current snow conditions in the Vercors, you can visit snowmap.fr (or download the app) to see how many centimetres of snow there are at the moment.
Popular Routes
One thing to know about the Traversée du Vercors is that… well, it doesn’t really exist. In other words: there’s no single official route, just a network of possibilities that you can piece together yourself. That said, a few itineraries have become more popular than others, and some are even well-established:
1) Corrençon → Col de Rousset
By far the most popular option, often referred to as the “Grande Traversée du Vercors – winter version.” This north-to-south crossing takes around 2 to 4 days and traverses almost the entire reserve. The route is relatively easy to follow (provided there hasn’t been fresh snowfall), as it’s frequently travelled, and you’ll pass several ‘cabanes‘ (mountain huts) along the way for overnight stays. A great choice for a first winter traverse!
2) Corrençon → Archiane / Glandasse
If you’re looking for something a bit more adventurous, you can extend the route beyond Col de Rousset and continue on to Archiane or Glandasse. This adds roughly two extra days and brings you into the wilder, more remote southern parts of the Vercors. Perfect if you’re after a stronger sense of expedition!
3) Corrençon → Clelles
This option shares the same starting point, but offers a more dramatic and photogenic finale than Col de Rousset. You’ll be rewarded with stunning views of the iconic Mont Aiguille before descending into the valley towards the village of Clelles. As this area sits at a lower altitude, snow cover can be less reliable, so snowshoes are generally the safer choice for this variant.
Of course, these are just a few ideas. Once you start studying the map, you’ll quickly realise that there are countless trails to combine, allowing you to create a route that fits exactly what you’re looking for.
Navigation
As this is a winter traverse through snowy terrain, navigation plays a crucial role in both the experience and your safety. If there hasn’t been any recent snowfall, you may be able to follow tracks left by other adventurers, but don’t rely on this. Waymarking is limited, and finding your way can still be surprisingly tricky in the snow. Carrying a GPS device is therefore essential for this kind of trip. Make sure to download the GPX file of your chosen route in advance and use an app you’re comfortable with to follow it.
For this traverse, I used my COROS Apex 4 sports watch (those who’ve been following along this past year will know I’m a big fan), and it made a real difference. I didn’t have to pull out my phone every time I doubted the route, which kept things simple and efficient. As a bonus, it also tracked useful stats like pace and elevation, and allowed me to mark specific points along the way: something I really enjoyed revisiting afterwards. Aaaaaand, as a bonus… It has a ski touring option! 🙂
If you’re considering getting one, you can use this link and the code “Floor” to receive a free wristband with your purchase. I’d personally recommend the nylon bands, they’re incredibly comfortable!
Public transport
As the Traversée du Vercors is a point-to-point route rather than a loop, one practical question quickly comes up: how do you get to the starting point, and how do you come back after finishing the trail? Some people choose to turn their route into a loop hike to return to their car, while others try their luck hitchhiking at the end. That said, hitchhiking isn’t always easy in this area, as traffic near the usual end points can be quite limited.
Luckily, several access points are well connected by public transport:
1) Corrençon-en-Vercors
From Grenoble, you can take a bus directly to Corrençon-en-Vercors and start your adventure straight away.
2) Villard-de-Lans
This village is also accessible by bus, but it lies slightly lower in the valley, which makes for a longer approach at the start. As most routes pass through Corrençon-en-Vercors anyway, many people prefer to begin there.
3) Clelles
A popular finishing point, Clelles has its own train station: no need for additional buses, and you’ll be back in Grenoble in no time.
4) Die
This southern option also has a train station, but it’s less commonly chosen as it extends the traverse quite a bit. If you do head this way, it’s worth bringing a pair of regular shoes for the final section, where snow cover is often limited in winter.
Accommodation along the way
The Vercors mountain range is well known for its excellent accommodation system, with a wide network of unguarded huts (called ‘cabanes‘ in French) scattered along the route. These huts are simple, unlocked shelters that are free to use for passing adventurers. They don’t have electricity or proper beds (sometimes you’ll find a few mattresses, but that’s about it), and most are equipped with a stove. If you’re lucky, there’ll be some firewood waiting; otherwise, you’ll have to gather your own.
If you’d like to research specific huts in the area or along your planned route, you can find detailed information on Refuges Info.
Skis or snowshoes
As you explore the Vercors, you’ll notice a wide variety of equipment being used to travel across the snow: some people opt for snowshoes, others for Nordic skis or cross-country skis… there’s no single “right” way to do it!
That said, if you’re planning to venture beyond the more popular traverses, snowshoes are generally the better choice. Some sections can be quite steep and winding through trees, with patchy snow cover in places, which can make skiing more challenging.
It’s also a good idea to bring microspikes, in case you encounter icier sections along the way.
Pulka: yes or no?
During the trek, you might even come across people pulling a pulka. We did so too, and to be honest, we regretted it just a few hours into the trek. Some sections (especially in the north) are quite uneven, with narrow forest paths that make it difficult to keep the pulka from tipping over every other minute.
I’d only recommend bringing a pulka if you’re planning to camp and your backpack would otherwise be too heavy to carry comfortably. If you’re staying in huts along the way, or if your pack is manageable, it’s much easier to skip the pulka and carry everything on your back instead. It’ll save you a lot of frustration along the way!
Avalanche risk
One of the most important factors to consider when traveling across snowy terrain is the risk of avalanches. Fortunately, under most conditions, the main traverses in the Vercors are considered safe from avalanche danger. They typically follow open terrain and avoid slopes steeper than 30°, which significantly reduces the risk.
If you want to double-check the conditions along your planned route, it’s a good idea to consult an avalanche map. These maps indicate risk levels across the area (often using red to highlight zones with a higher likelihood of avalanches) so you can better assess the terrain before setting out. You can find one here.
Food
When it comes to food, I can keep things simple: you’ll need to carry everything for the entire trip. There are no shops along the way, so you’ll be fully self-sufficient. Make sure to bring a reliable stove to melt snow for water, as streams can be frozen or buried under snow during peak winter conditions.
And that’s it: my tips for the Traversée du Vercors! Please keep in mind that this isn’t a complete guide, but rather a collection of personal insights to help you get started with your planning. Always check the weather forecast before setting out, bring warm and reliable gear, and be prepared for changing conditions. Mountain weather can shift quickly, and with little to no phone reception across much of the Vercors, you’ll need to rely on yourself.
Most of all: enjoy the planning, and (try to) savour every moment of your time in these incredibly beautiful mountains!!
